From Moschino's new creative directors to sophomore collections at Gucci, Marni and Fendi, here's what to watch in Milan.
The spring/summer 2027 fashion month has moved from New York and London to Milan, where a new generation of creative directors is reshaping legacy brands. The Italian city's growing influence has been amplified by the recent appointment of Dario Vitale—known for maximalist street style appeal—as creative director at Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani accessories. Though Vitale's debut won't arrive until early next year, several other developments make this Milan season worth following.
New leadership at Moschino
Moschino has tapped Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the designers behind Sunnei, as its new creative directors. The pair built their careers in menswear before expanding into womenswear, and their work favors vivid colors, clean silhouettes, and theatrical runway presentations. Accessories hold particular importance for them: they have produced rubberized earrings in neon shades, sculptural leather bags, and bold sunglasses. Their ready-to-wear approach emphasizes oversized denim and bold stripes.
The brand's history traces back to founder Franco Moschino, who maintained its chic yet playful identity until his death in 1994. Rossella Jardini, his longtime collaborator, led the label until 2013, followed by Jeremy Scott's exuberant tenure and brief periods under Adrian Appiolaza. Messina and Rizzo's arrival offers a chance to introduce a fresh perspective.
Second collections take shape
Gucci, Marni, and Fendi will present their second collections under new leadership this season. At Gucci, Demna's debut featured body-conscious, slim silhouettes in Milan before a subsequent cruise show in Times Square. Marni's Meryll Rogge demonstrated her distinctive approach to color and texture with references to the label's 1990s archival shapes. At Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered refined craftsmanship and revived the Baguette bag through elaborate embellishment.
Rising names on the schedule
Milan maintains its reputation for nurturing emerging talent. Institution By Galib Gassanoff, an LVMH Prize finalist that showed at Copenhagen Fashion Week, brings Georgian and Azerbaijani craft influences through draped gowns and sequins. The season also features Leandro Cano's dramatic, unconventional gowns with idiosyncratic details; Neithan Herbert, founded by Ecuadorian designer Neithan Ruiz, presenting minimalist, craft-focused pieces; and Viktor-Hart's inaugural womenswear collection combining upcycled denim with Ghanaian heritage and Italian technique.